The chocolate cake pictured contains a “secret ingredient” and is one I’ve returned to again and again, always producing a rich, moist cake. If you find yourself longing to bake but short on eggs and butter, here’s a surprisingly reliable alternative.

That ingredient is 3/4 cup of mayonnaise, and its use in cake baking has an interesting history.

The first known cake recipe using mayonnaise appeared in 1927 in the Oakland Tribune, which suggested “whipping up an egg and ¼ cup of oil.” Many believe the real turning point came in 1937, when Hellmann’s Mayonnaise printed a cake recipe on the back of its label, promoting mayonnaise as a convenient fat substitute. During World War II, when food rationing made eggs and butter scarce, mayonnaise — already made from egg yolks and oil — became a practical stand-in. What surprised many home bakers was the exceptional moisture and richness it added — qualities that keep this “secret ingredient” in rotation even today.

Try it, I have a feeling you’ll like it. It doesn’t need to be your everyday cake, but when eggs or butter are running low, it’s a trusty standby.

Here is the recipe from The Cake Bible by Rose Levy Beranbaum:

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Down-Home Chocolate-Mayonnaise Cake

Serves 10

Ingredients

• ⅓ cup unsweetened cocoa (non-alkalized, such as Hershey’s)
• 1 cup boiling water
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• ¾ cup mayonnaise
• 2 cups sifted cake flour
• 1 cup sugar (or 1 cup honey or maple sugar, if preferred)
• 2 teaspoons baking soda
• ½ teaspoon salt

Instructions

Preheat oven to 350°F.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the cocoa and boiling water until smooth. Cool to room temperature. Whisk in the vanilla and mayonnaise. (Add honey here if using instead of sugar.)

In a large mixing bowl, combine the remaining dry ingredients and mix on low speed for 30 seconds to blend. Add the chocolate mixture and mix on low speed until the dry ingredients are moistened. Increase to medium speed (high if using a hand mixer) and beat for 1 minute to aerate and develop structure.

Scrape the batter into prepared pans (it will be quite liquid), filling each pan only about one-third full.

Bake for 20–25 minutes, or until a tester inserted near the center comes out clean and the cake springs back when pressed lightly. The cakes will begin to shrink slightly from the sides of the pans after removal from the oven. Cool in the pans on racks for 10 minutes. Loosen the sides with a small metal spatula and invert onto greased wire racks. Cool completely before wrapping airtight.

Each layer will be approximately 1¼ inches high.

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Frosting Options

A simple dusting of powdered sugar, any buttercream except lemon, or cream cheese frosting pairs beautifully with this cake.

Royal Honey Buttercream

Ingredients

• 6 large egg yolks
• ½ cup honey
• 2 cups unsalted butter

Have a greased 1-cup heatproof glass measure ready near the stove.

In a bowl, beat the yolks with an electric mixer until light in color. Meanwhile, heat the honey in a small saucepan (preferably nonstick), stirring constantly until the sugar dissolves and the syrup reaches a rolling boil, with the entire surface covered in large bubbles. Immediately transfer the syrup to the glass measure to stop the cooking.

If using a hand mixer, beat the honey into the yolks in a steady stream, being careful not to pour it directly onto the beaters. If using a stand mixer, pour a small amount of honey over the yolks with the mixer turned off, then immediately beat on high speed for 5 seconds. Stop, add a larger amount of honey, and beat again. Continue until all the honey is incorporated, scraping the measure clean for the final addition.

Continue beating until the mixture is completely cool and thickened before adding the butter as directed in your preferred buttercream method.

Gradually beat in the butter and, if desired, any optional flavoring. Place in an airtight bowl. Bring to room temperature before using. Re-beat to restore texture.